Reserve Bank of Zimbabwe entrance |
I really did not feel at home this time around because commodity
prices were way beyond what I thought was normal, especially for anyone
carrying the South African Rand in their pockets, as we did. Many of my
rand-earning friends cancelled their visits to Zimbabwe when the exchange rate
against the US dollar fell to an extremely unfavourable 16:1. Others still went
home, but shortened their stay after their pockets quickly became depleted. A
can of baked beans, for instance, was close to a dollar, that means it was
about R16 when converted, and a 2 litre of Coke was R32. We buy those commodities
for about R6 and R18 respectively. It didn’t help that the usual Zimbabwean
problems such as power-cuts and water shortages still persisted. I had huge
adjustment problems because in Manzini we hardly have power-cuts or water
shortages, although Mbabane is currently having serious water problems because
of the drought and has started water-rationing.
The people with the longest faces, however, were most civil servants. They did not get their December salaries until January 5th and are still waiting for their bonuses.
The people with the longest faces, however, were most civil servants. They did not get their December salaries until January 5th and are still waiting for their bonuses.
A week before we even left Swaziland, which was also a week before
Christmas, I had been informed that there was no electricity at my parents’
house in Rusape where we were visiting first. A transformer was said to have
exploded. I assumed by the time we got
there, things would have normalized, but alas… We stayed there for a week and
never saw electricity once. A small section of the neighbourhood was affected,
so we were able to charge our phones at my aunt’s house nearby. That’s also where
we kept perishables. The other option was to also charge in the car. It was a
hassle, and I usually didn’t even bother to charge my phone.
As they say, every cloud has silver lining. We actually were forced to
have candlelit dinner every day J.
Not having power in the house also meant there was no TV and there was minimal
use of mobile phones. I thought we would have to go to bed at 7pm for lack of
entertainment, but for the duration of that week, we slept at around midnight
almost every day. There were so many stories to share, and I always prodded my
father to talk about ghost stories. He always gets animated when he talks about
ghosts, as he says there were many in Dowa, west of Rusape, were he grew up.
Everyone, including myself, also had a story to tell. Read here for my ghost
story.
Uncollected refuse at the Rusape Bus Rank |
I had done my nails for the holidays but ended up breaking themL while carrying pots
from the fire where we cooked into the house and from exposing them to the fire
while pushing bits of wood into it. I got ash in my newly-done weave trying to
blow the fire after it had rained and the wood was damp. Eventually we bought a
gas stove. Power was only restored on January 2nd.
Now I hear there are fears of typhoid outbreak and that doesn’t
surprise me at all. People just dispose of their refuse willy nilly. I hope the
outbreak is quickly contained, because given the water crisis in the country,
many people would surely perish from it. My sister has stayed in the low
density suburb of Mandara for the past three years, and through all those
years, has not seen a drop of water come out of her tap. Word on the street is
that council decided those living in low density areas could afford to dig
boreholes so they would not have water channeled to their houses. When we were
in Mandara, we had to use water very sparingly and only took a bath from a
bucket once a day. They have to buy 5000 litres of water for $50 and it lasts
about 3 weeks. They also have to harvest water when it rains, and their pool
has become another storage place for water to use for ablution purposes.
I enjoyed the communal way of life in Rusape, which I miss sometimes
while I’m here. My parents’ neighbours lost a relative and one other neighbour
called my mom from behind the durawall to inform her. As soon as my mom heard,
she called her other neighbours from her sink behind the other side of the
durawall to also spread the word. In less than five minutes of word of the
death coming, many people knew. They immediately joined each other on the
street and made way to the grieving neighbours to convey their condolences.
That’s how it has always happened even when I was growing up. News spread like
veld fire in the township. It would get really hectic if the news wasn’t so
positive for your family, because it spread faster than the funeral ones. Woe
betide if your child got arrested or pregnant, or if your husband was sleeping
with some known prostitute. Everyone would know and talk about it. Read here about life in the townships, as I know it.
Children playing on the street in Rusape |
It was sad to note how, because of the economic quandary Zimbabwe is
in, everyone has been reduced to a vendor. Everywhere you turn, somebody is
selling something. The streets were lined with people peddling their wares
ranging from vegetables, second-hand clothes, cheap products from Chinese
shops, everything. They have even bought small loudspeakers to lure people to
their merchandise, which results in so much noise. If you park your car or
drive in town, you are mobbed by people who walk around selling small things
like foot powder, air fresheners, Zimbabwe flags, pirated CDs and DVDs, and all
sorts of things. Sometimes their efforts to make you buy are borderline
harassment, but you have to keep telling yourself that life isn’t easy here and
they are trying to send their children to school, pay their rents, and put food
for on their tables. It’s heartbreaking. You feel really guilty when you
decline to buy something from someone because you can see the determination to
make a sale in their eyes, but you check yourself and have to keep repeating in
your head, “I can’t buy from everyone. Someone else will buy even if I don’t.”
I did buy a flag on the street for $3 and my husband negotiated from $5. Speaking
of streets, the potholes on them have grown in magnitude, and it’s almost
hilarious to see all cars from left and right driving at their very extreme
side as they all try to avoid the middle of the road riddled with potholes
almost as deep as bath tubs
Vending stalls in Mbare, Harare |
Despite the semblance of poverty, there are also pockets of affluence
all around. People are building big and beautiful houses while being
overcharged for building material and services. Zimbabweans have amazing
tenacity. Because they have become so used to being swindled, some of them have
become spendthrift without even realizing it. People pay ridiculous amounts for
something and you are just left flabbergasted. My friend says she’s struggling
financially but bought a facial product for $29=R464! I would never buy
anything that overpriced. The same product, when on special here, costs
R116=$7.25, would you believe it!
Because everything is overpriced, many people have resorted to buying
second-hand clothes and shoes, in some cases even underwear, which come in huge
bales from Mozambican ports. I had a glimpse at the financial results of a
well-known clothing brand and noticed how it had done very badly. I just
assumed it was because people were now looking for cheaper options.
Notwithstanding all the challenges being faced at home, I’m still
super proud to be called a Zimbabwean, I had a great time with loved ones and
was able to recharge my batteries. I will keep praying for better days for
Zimbabwe. They will surely come. God hasn’t, can’t have, forgotten us.
Read here for my traumatic trip back to Swaziland.